I really did mean to post this interview last week, but with my birthday in the middle of the week (which ensued endless hours on the phone with family & friends and a birthday concert on Friday), plus everything else that I ordinarily have going on, I just didn't get to it. And Loreto needs little introduction, but this perfumer from San Francisco is emerging as one of my favorites. I have been wearing Yellow Rose nearly non-stop since we traded samples awhile back, and the aldehyde/bright rosey floral is stunning. (Take that, Chanel No. 5.) Not to mention, Loreto is highly skilled - or so I've heard - at bespoke perfumery, and has a penchant for all-natural perfumes. Read on to learn more about her, her work, and her inspirations.

1. When did you decide to make perfume? How did Loreto Aromatica begin?

I've been curious about making perfume since I was a little kid. I started making perfumes about 13 years ago, while studying aromatherapy. I opened a small bath and body company called Violet Aura in the late 90s but I closed it prematurely to focus on graphic design because I was still in school. I dabbled in perfumery for years after that but in 2005 I discovered Etsy, which inspired me to make perfume for the public again.

2. Was this a spur of the moment decision, or something that you thought long and hard about?

Opening an Etsy store was definitely a spur of the moment decision but dedicating all of my time and resources on perfuming was something I thought long and hard about. In 2007 I was still freelancing full-time as a graphic designer but I was burning out, so I took some time off and immersed myself in perfuming.

3. Did you wear perfume before you made your own? If so, which ones do you think had an influence on your style?

I definitely wore perfume before I started making my own. Gosh, I've worn so many different perfumes in my life, from musks to light florals to deep, spicy orientals. I don't wear mass-produced perfumes anymore, they just don't have the nuances that handcrafted/natural perfumes have. Right now I really love Strange Invisible Perfumes which are all-natural. I can't really say that any of my favorite perfumes have influenced my style.

4. What influences you today when you sit down to create a new perfume?

Real flowers and plants are my biggest influence. When I sniff a flower, I try to analyze it olfactorily and search for notes that I can use to replicate the scent. For instance, I add apricot, lemon and vanilla notes to my Yellow Rose perfume to mimic the true scent of a yellow rose. I try not to create perfumes that smell too much alike (it's easy to fall into a pattern.) When I sit down to create a new perfume, I usually start with a goal in my mind and then I write down note ideas before I start mixing. Most of my best perfumes existed on paper before they were even blended. If I try to experiment by mixing notes without a clear goal, the scent usually fails. I do really like a challenge when it comes to making perfume. That's why I love creating custom scents. When someone comes to me and says they want a perfume that smells like "a pot of chopped rhubarb stalks sprinkled with sugar, right before the boiling point" or "a coffee shop with ivy-covered brick walls, cold coffee and milk and forgotten cake" I get really excited.

5. What's your process like in developing new fragrances or products?

I start with the idea. (Sometimes, if it's a floral, I keep the flower close by for comparison.) I take lots of notes! Then, I build the scent from the bottom up. I don't really follow a formula and I'm not too meticulous with my method. Sometimes I add a heart note while I'm still developing the base (or add a top note while still developing the heart.) It depends on the perfume but sometimes I build around a main note like with Hello Delicious which was built around an amazing pink jasmine fragrance oil. I always add essential oils to any perfume I make and I try to use them in a higher ratio than the fragrance oils (unless of course the perfume is all-natural and fragrance oils are omitted altogether.)

6. Do you think that your city has had an affect on your style?

I do! San Francisco is very inspiring. I live on Haight Street (close to Ashbury) which has an abundance of Tibetan and Indian stores selling handcrafts and exotic oils. The smell of incense is always in the air. Plus, I live a block away from Buena Vista Park and two blocks from the Panhandle (Golden Gate Park.) There are some beautiful gardens in my neighborhood. I especially love this time of year because the air is pregnant with the smell of jasmine, daphne, narcissus, and mimosa. We also grow our own herbs, flowers and vegetables in our garden. There are many people in San Francisco that belong to the craft/handmade movement. San Francisco has many stores that carry local designers and crafters. I'm lucky to be surrounded by such wonderful, talented people.

7. You're stranded on a desert island and can only take 9 notes with you. What are they?

I love this question! Mysore Sandalwood, Italian Bergamot, Patchouli, Rosewood, Pink Grapefruit, Jasmine Grandiflorum, Madagascar Vanilla, and Orange.

8. How did you learn perfume? Are you self taught?

Yes, I learned completely on my own (and I still have a lot more to learn!) First, collecting essential oils, then fragrance oils and reading many books on perfuming and aromatherapy. I've done a lot of experimenting, mixing and blending, and taking notes. It has been a long process of trial and error. (Perfuming is also a lot like cooking or making cocktails.) Ever since I was little, I've always had a sort of exaggerated sense of smell and I'm always sniffing things. I keep a catalog of scents I smell when I travel. Experimenting, taking notes, reading and smelling new perfumes are what have helped me learn what I know.

9. What else are you into right now? What do you do with your free time?

I love nature: hiking, camping, swimming, tree-hugging, full-moon gatherings, laying on the beach, rock-stacking, and exploring the desert, etc. I also love hanging out with my son, cooking, knitting, sewing, gardening, running, going to art shows, watching my husband's band perform, socializing, travel and design.

10. What can we expect from Loreto in the future?

Definitely more natural perfumes! I've been very inspired to create more all-naturals. I'm also working on more bath and body products. At some point, I'd love to learn how to make cold-process soap!